Update 6: 10-08-2022
In order to create my own textile design I would need to prepare a textile blueprint. I can use Photoshop software to prepare some tests. Initially I wanted to use the sail pattern from project Velero, but I also want to experiment with the new logo that studio Vormforensen prepared for my fashion label SYNÆRCHI. It's nice to play with these digital transparencies and think about how this will transfer into the textile texture? I will need to think about what kind of yarns I want to use for the textile design, because this will highly influence the final outcome of the textile design. Next to that, I will also need to think about how we will create some kind of stiff versus flexible effect within the textile design. This kind of binding balance will contribute to the architectural character of the Bermuda textile design. Underneath you can find the first test of the digital blueprint.
Update 5: 18-07-2022
It seems the industry is searching for the new meaning of what haute couture should become in the future. The current fashion industry is shifting with ready to wear becoming the new haute couture. Ready to wear with the haute couture price on it! A ShowStudio interview quote from ''Kerry Taylor'' that resonated with me: "Cristobal would roll over in his grave knowing that haute couture in the future meant denim jeans". Debating the relevance of couture in the future? So, recently I have visited the museum of Balenciaga (Getaria @ Spain) and I heard the director of the museum ''Miren Vives'' explaining about Cristobals vision. What came through is that she clearly did not like the (sneakers mentality) commercial direction of the current Balenciaga brand. It's her mission to keep the real Balenciaga vision alive, and I felt that during her speeches. During the exposition of Balenciaga it became evident that his road had a clear step by step process, with the idea that every innovation needs to have time and love investment. This felt really refreshing to me, especially in the current time where everything needs to be about speed fast forward! I personally feel like I have searched for a deeper meaning in my fashion over the last 10 years. The development of the artistic and mainly technical process have been in more relevance of my world compared to the commercial needs, which up to this point I have put on the low importance side of development. Sure, commercial growth is important, but I feel that the relevance in the future is within innovation production development, especially when we live in a world that is graving for change with a capital C. It's really important for a designer in general to understand the long term needs in the future of fashion, which in my opinion are production and material-wise. Going from macro to micro and to understand understand as a fashion designer what goes on within the entire chain. We can't be here up the chain and just look down and not really understand the details and complexity of what goes on underneath us. It's also our responsibility as future generation designers to make bridges and learn about it. I have heard so many influential academic professionals graving for designers to expand and explore beyond their own comfort zone. A shift of mentality and attitude. Step by step we will evolve and improve. Yes, it would mean total time dedication, but innovations only become meaningful in the future when you learn how to commit on maximum level. At least, this is what I have learned up so far building my experience within this industry. In my search for the development of my current fashion collection I dedicate my project to create 1 single signature ready to wear piece (with a real haute couture approach), and to really focus on all aspects to be able to create that piece. Meaning: materials sourcing, yarn development, textile design, toile processing, prototyping, sizing, production development, sustainable dyeing, exposure, sales and logistics etc. I choose to document this process throughout updates and to be transparent about how complex it really is to at least create one single fashion design item! It's nice to be able to provide this journey online. It is also good to currently learn that several people are starting to talk more openly about the topic of haute couture, because I personally feel that Kerry Taylor really spoke a lot of peoples minds when they saw the current Balenciaga July 2022 couture show. The search for what fashion should look like in the future continues! Should couture still have that really high fashion total look feel? All the way starting from the inside, throughout the imaginative world that communicates via the outside. Yes!!!!, I do share that view on fashion! Ready to wear = ready to wear and haute couture = haute couture! It's not about denim in general, because Gaultier has proven many decades already that denim in couture is very high fashion. The issue here is more about that what if ready to wear is becoming the haute couture of the future? Couture should stay HAUTE!
Update 4: 15-07-2022
The final step of the initial toile process @ OneRoomOffice is complete. It was lovely to work with model Juul again. She opened my show during my debut in Paris back in 2017. She explained me how she is continuing her road in textiles, doing a bachelor degree at Saxion hogeschool in Enschede. This is amazing! It's really nice how you can inspire each other like that, to collaborate and open new perspectives towards future goals. I am happy for her that she is moving forward in this direction. The stories that she shared with me, doing school field trips in Morocco and to visit textile factories, really trigger my curiosity senses. I might look into this in the near future!
It was a good idea from Sybille to fit the original Tormenta designs and afterwards fit the new Bermuda toile. This way we can put the pictures next to eachother and see if we need to adjust some details within the pattern design. The last time we cut the toiles open and created some extra fabric space, and it really shows to have a more relaxed feel during the second fitting. It's also really interesting to compare and see the influence of textile design. The cotton toile has a more paper feel to it, which I find inspiring also. The black Tormenta design feels more fragile and relaxed. Maybe I can find a balance between those 2 prototypes, to not be too fragile and not be too stiff either!
Team OneRoomOffice changed the knee length in the Bermuda dress sample. The new adjusted length feels much better. We will adjust this length also for the original skirt design. We also adjusted the pleating near the chest area of the top. It feels more well put together now that it's placed a few cm's towards the right. The overall idea for the adapted dress design is to attach the top and skirt to each other, in order to create a new dress out of it. Surprisingly the shape of the original design slightly changes, allowing the dress to have its own kind of aesthetic. Initially I thought the skirt, top and dress design would have a complete duplicated total feel, but it's not the case and I really love that! At this point I am feeling secure enough to temporarily wrap up this good start with OneRoomOffice. I will continue the next coming months to design the textiles with TexJoyper. More updates about that will follow soon!
Update 3: 30-06-2022
The first step of the project was to make a toile from the Tormenta skirt and top. The team of OneRoomOffice focused on mainly square and rectangular patterns, to finally produce an entire garment out of it. Sybille (co-founder) from OneRoomOffice explained me how she was playing around with the inlay of the patterns on the software program that she works with. This process is like puzzle pieces that needs to fit perfectly with each other. It was interesting for me to learn about this process, because it inspires me to think about how I would approach creating the textile design for this project.
Through my contact Zoë Mesman (previous intern and ArtEZ Arnhem alumni) it was able to arrange a lovely model to do the fitting session with Sybille. Our model Lisa is in her 3rd year of ArtEZ currently and her roots are from Ukraine. I was instantly drawn to the jewelry that she was wearing and I made some pictures. I might use some of the textures from this jewelry to produce the blueprint of the textile design. Spontaneous moments like these inspire me and I always love these kind of unexpected surprises in life.
Sybille and I were brainstorming about the fit. The top was almost instantly good pattern-wise, just some detail changes over there. The skirt I would love to have some extra volume, because I personally love when my designed textiles have the air to move around the body. It feels more relaxed and sensual for me. We have been working around a mannequin and cut the toile open to create extra space. We changed the style of the pleating a bit to create a different feel for the textile shape. Sybille has been writing down everything that we mentioned, and I feel I continue to work on the textile design in Spain. The toile stage for me personally was almost intact already. I would like to see the OneRoomOffice transfer dress variant toile soon. More updates about that will follow in the next coming months.
I love to document some technical making process, especially when the hands of the makers looks so impressively skilled. Sybille and myself will work on the pattern inlay for the next coming weeks. I think it's already interesting to see how the pattern software shows how efficient the inlay actually is. Underneath I can share some of that data:
- total patterns top = 9x
- efficiency = 77%
- yield = 134,41 cm
- width = 120 cm (needs to be around 160 cm)
Update 2: 28-06-2022Welcome to an entire new project evolving around creating my first ever ready to wear collection. The search for fashion project is an accelerator program (Cosme @ European Commission) that allows start ups to create a business model and capsule collection.
After nearly 10 years working as an innovation production developer I feel ready to create my first commercial collection and to really know and understand what I am selling to buyers. I currently have a clear idea on where source materials come from and how these can be transformed into signature textiles, with the idea of innovative no waste 3D shape produced patterns that are converted into contemporary fashion designs. My main partners for the project are OneRoomOffice (located in the Netherlands), Textiles Joyper (located in Spain) and Care Applications (located also in Spain). Besides my main partners I will also have contact with Aitex Textile Institute Alcoy, who will support me on the materials that will be woven @ Textiles Joyper. Care Applications will work on sustainable dyeing techniques, with the use of nano nebulization technology, which reduce the textile dye process with minus 80% water use (normal t-shirt for example uses 2500 liters of water to get dyed in the current industrial dye systems) The process starts with OneRoomOffice, an atelier with experienced patterns makers in Arnhem. The studio of Adaptive Skins is also located in Arnhem, which makes it always easy to travel to the fashion production atelier when I need to double check on details last minute. The designs that I choose for my new start up Synaerchi are based from my 2018 Hyeres collection Tormenta. The prototype was given to the patternmakers and sewers of OneRoomOffice. I am happy with the first toiles that they made. We will continue working on this design for the next coming months. Underneath a first impression of the designs.
Update 2: 18-03-2022
During the second week of March 2022 several entrepreneurs in Europe were invited to attend the S4F (project search for fashion) sandpit days in Athens Greece. It was nice to see Athens for the first time in my life. The city was giving me inspiring ancient vibrations, it felt really deep and good personally. It was also nice to see what several other start-ups in Europe are doing to create a more sustainable future in fashion. The goal of this event was to select projects in order to join the S4F European Commission Cosme start-up programme. In the end 25 projects were selected and project Bermuda was granted the 10K fund, that also includes mentor guidance and business development. The programme will last one year and the final outcome will be my first ever official capsule ready to wear collection.