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Production chain documentation
In order to create my own textile design I would need to prepare a textile blueprint. I can use Photoshop software to prepare some tests. Initially I wanted to use the sail pattern from project Velero, but I also want to experiment with the new logo that studio Vormforensen prepared for my fashion label SYNÆRCHI. It's nice to play with these digital transparencies and think about how this will transfer into the textile texture? I will need to think about what kind of yarns I want to use for the textile design, because this will highly influence the final outcome of the textile design. Next to that, I will also need to think about how we will create some kind of stiff versus flexible effect within the textile design. This kind of binding balance will contribute to the architectural character of the Bermuda textile design. Underneath you can find the first test of the digital blueprint.
The final step of the initial toile process @ OneRoomOffice is complete. It was lovely to work with model Juul again. She opened my show during my debut in Paris back in 2017. She explained me how she is continuing her road in textiles, doing a bachelor degree at Saxion hogeschool in Enschede. This is amazing! It's really nice how you can inspire each other like that, to collaborate and open new perspectives towards future goals. I am happy for her that she is moving forward in this direction. The stories that she shared with me, doing school field trips in Morocco and to visit textile factories, really trigger my curiosity senses. I might look into this in the near future!
It was a good idea from Sybille to fit the original Tormenta designs and afterwards fit the new Bermuda toile. This way we can put the pictures next to eachother and see if we need to adjust some details within the pattern design. The last time we cut the toiles open and created some extra fabric space, and it really shows to have a more relaxed feel during the second fitting. It's also really interesting to compare and see the influence of textile design. The cotton toile has a more paper feel to it, which I find inspiring also. The black Tormenta design feels more fragile and relaxed. Maybe I can find a balance between those 2 prototypes, to not be too fragile and not be too stiff either!
Team OneRoomOffice changed the knee length in the Bermuda dress sample. The new adjusted length feels much better. We will adjust this length also for the original skirt design. We also adjusted the pleating near the chest area of the top. It feels more well put together now that it's placed a few cm's towards the right. The overall idea for the adapted dress design is to attach the top and skirt to each other, in order to create a new dress out of it. Surprisingly the shape of the original design slightly changes, allowing the dress to have its own kind of aesthetic. Initially I thought the skirt, top and dress design would have a complete duplicated total feel, but it's not the case and I really love that! At this point I am feeling secure enough to temporarily wrap up this good start with OneRoomOffice. I will continue the next coming months to design the textiles with TexJoyper. More updates about that will follow soon!
The first step of the project was to make a toile from the Tormenta skirt and top. The team of OneRoomOffice focused on mainly square and rectangular patterns, to finally produce an entire garment out of it. Sybille (co-founder) from OneRoomOffice explained me how she was playing around with the inlay of the patterns on the software program that she works with. This process is like puzzle pieces that needs to fit perfectly with each other. It was interesting for me to learn about this process, because it inspires me to think about how I would approach creating the textile design for this project.
Through my contact Zoë Mesman (previous intern and ArtEZ Arnhem alumni) it was able to arrange a lovely model to do the fitting session with Sybille. Our model Lisa is in her 3rd year of ArtEZ currently and her roots are from Ukraine. I was instantly drawn to the jewelry that she was wearing and I made some pictures. I might use some of the textures from this jewelry to produce the blueprint of the textile design. Spontaneous moments like these inspire me and I always love these kind of unexpected surprises in life.
Sybille and I were brainstorming about the fit. The top was almost instantly good pattern-wise, just some detail changes over there. The skirt I would love to have some extra volume, because I personally love when my designed textiles have the air to move around the body. It feels more relaxed and sensual for me. We have been working around a mannequin and cut the toile open to create extra space. We changed the style of the pleating a bit to create a different feel for the textile shape. Sybille has been writing down everything that we mentioned, and I feel I continue to work on the textile design in Spain. The toile stage for me personally was almost intact already. I would like to see the OneRoomOffice transfer dress variant toile soon. More updates about that will follow in the next coming months.
I love to document some technical making process, especially when the hands of the makers looks so impressively skilled. Sybille and myself will work on the pattern inlay for the next coming weeks. I think it's already interesting to see how the pattern software shows how efficient the inlay actually is. Underneath I can share some of that data:
- total patterns top = 9x
- efficiency = 77%
- yield = 134,41 cm
- width = 120 cm (needs to be around 160 cm)
Welcome to an entire new project evolving around creating my first ever ready to wear collection. The search for fashion project is an accelerator program (Cosme @ European Commission) that allows start ups to create a business model and capsule collection.
After nearly 10 years working as an innovation production developer I feel ready to create my first commercial collection and to really know and understand what I am selling to buyers. I currently have a clear idea on where source materials come from and how these can be transformed into signature textiles, with the idea of innovative no waste 3D shape produced patterns that are converted into contemporary fashion designs. My main partners for the project are OneRoomOffice (located in the Netherlands), Textiles Joyper (located in Spain) and Care Applications (located also in Spain). Besides my main partners I will also have contact with Aitex Textile Institute Alcoy, who will support me on the materials that will be woven @ Textiles Joyper. Care Applications will work on sustainable dyeing techniques, with the use of nano nebulization technology, which reduce the textile dye process with minus 80% water use (normal t-shirt for example uses 2500 liters of water to get dyed in the current industrial dye systems) The process starts with OneRoomOffice, an atelier with experienced patterns makers in Arnhem. The studio of Adaptive Skins is also located in Arnhem, which makes it always easy to travel to the fashion production atelier when I need to double check on details last minute. The designs that I choose for my new start up Synaerchi are based from my 2018 Hyeres collection Tormenta. The prototype was given to the patternmakers and sewers of OneRoomOffice. I am happy with the first toiles that they made. We will continue working on this design for the next coming months. Underneath a first impression of the designs.