Update 2: 30-04-2020
The postponed TextileLab Tilburg meetings allowed me to prepare everything in a more detailed way. I choose to use the best of the extra time to prepare my plans. I will be working on technical drawings that I will share with the TextileLab product developer. This will help the product developer to understand better about what I have in my mind. We will collaborate as a team, so it’s best to be as crystal clear as possible! There are 30 woven designs planned + 6 extra knitting samples ( 6 x 6 ). It will be better to prepare all the 30 weaving designs in terms of technical blueprint drafts. There are 5 weaving categories that will be divided in single and double weaving techniques. Each category has its own style and specific types of added weft yarns. Underneath you will find a global overview of initial plans that I have for the 5 x 6 Jacquard weaving and 1 x 6 ADF knitting designs.
In my studio I started working with the first Marinero prototype. I used pins to find the correct balance between the chest, waist and hip area. Following this path creating a wave pattern. This pattern is used to divide different bindings within the weaving blueprint. In the photograph above you can see a sample how each body section is divided. This will help the design to shift asymmetrical during the transformation process. Section 2 for example will have the tailored waist effect. The waist technique will be emphasized by adding more Adaptive Archi-Filaments within this frame. At the drawings below you can see an example of a technical weaving blueprint. It’s a very open twill versus a tight woven twill technique. This will help to shift the design asymmetrical during the transformation process. Each fabric design category has 6 final prototypes. The enclosed matrix shows an example of each category and its selective added yarns. During the coming months I will give you more insight on how we work step by step towards the tailored by weather experiments.
Update 1: 07-12-2019
In november the first prototype of the Adaptive Archi-Filament came to life. In the facility of Aitex it is possible to do small 50 cm width weaving samples. This is very interesting to test the designed filaments! We can prototype several yarns and filaments and test the weaving possibilities. The idea is to have a handful of approved initial signature archi-filaments, and send them to the TextileLab in Tilburg. If the team of TextileLab approves of the yarns Aitex in Alcoy can start the production of the Adaptive Archi-filament. Underneath you can see some initial weaving test using the first prototype of the Adaptive Archi-Filament within a weaving. The filament by itself has a very dramatic reaction to water. For the first weaving test we used carbon in the vertical (officially this will be 0,2mm white mono-filament) The Adaptive Archi-Filament shows a minor adaptive change when applied with water in combination with carbon. With mono-filament this will work a lot better. More updates follow up soon!
TextileLab - TextileMuseum Tilburg is the official partner of creating the jacquard weaving for project Marinero. Together with the product developers and yarns adviser we will team up to realize the digital blueprints. The first step will be to test our own developed yarns. The TextileLab team are an important partner to advise me about what is possible to work with or not. Kevin and Jef will work on creating the wave technical pattern drawings. These patterns will be send to the TextileLab product developer. The weaving production can be scheduled when all the yarns are produced and final tests are approved. The whole collection will be woven on the jacquard machine. After that the fabric role will be transported to the Studio of Adaptive Skins. Arrived in Arnhem the blueprints will be cut, stitched and installed for at least one month in open air. On this page the whole process of creating the jacquard weaving will be updated regularly.
Photo @ TextielMuseum Tilburg